I really wanted to re-read "The Monkeywrench Gang", but the edition they had was too big and heavy to justify carrying in my pack.
I will now actually be carrying two books, in sharp violation of all principles of ultralight hiking, as I am also reading a copy of Steinbeck's "Cannery Row." Somehow I managed to get through high school without ever reading it.
Allen Freeman
allen@allenf.com
www.allenf.com
AT Miles = 3.2 / 271.8
Other Miles = 0 / 14.7
Total Miles = 3.2 / 286.5
Thursday evening was wonderful; warm, calm, and relaxing. There were 5 or 6 of us sleeping in or camped around the shelter, and we passed a relaxing evening cooking, eating, and chatting around a small campfire.
The forecast called for thunder and lightning storms on Friday morning and when I went to bed I expected to wake up to rain, but when I woke up on Friday morning the sky was clear and the temps had remained mild all night.
I wasted no time in packing my gear and heating water for a quick breakfast of instant oatmeal. The walk down into Hot Springs was lovely and passed quickly, and I and Sir Richard arrived at Elmer's Sunnybank Inn a few minutes before 9:00. Elmer put our names on the waiting list and told us to come back at 11:00 to see if we would get a room or not, then we went across the street to the diner and had a huge breakfast. A few minutes after we entered the diner the sjky exploded in a huge lightning storm.
I barely managed to finish my breakfast, then we killed some time until it was time to head back to Elmer's. For a bit it looked like there wouldn't be enough vacancies for us to get in, but a couple of other hikers who were on the list ahead of us decided on other plans so that opened up enough slots for everyone on the list to get in.
Elmer's is an amazing place. It is one of the oldest houses in Hot Springs, and in most places it would be an expensive B&B, but Elnmer likes hikers and for long-distance hikers he charges only $20 per night. He also offers a 4 or 5 course home-made gourmet vegetarian dinner for $10. I opted for the dinner last night and it was right up there with many of the best meals I've had. Dinner lasted well over two hours accompanied by much conversation, and when I finally pushed back from the table I'm afraid I had overstuffed myself.
It is about noon on Saturday as I write this. I slept great last night and am spending a very lazy day today. I repacked my bounce box and sent it off to Erwin, TN (my next town stop) at the post office this morning, then made a list of the few food items I still needed for the next 5-dasy leg, and went shopping at the Dollar Generasl, the Hillbilly Grocery, and Bluff Mountain Outfitters. I also bought a new line and stuff/throw sack to replace the bear-bagging line I lost tangled in the trees way back at Brown Fork Gap.
My big disappointment here is the the library is closed for the holiday weekend and the only public internet access is one computer at the outfitters. There is a constant line of hikers waiting to use that computer so I couldn't take the time to upload my photos. That process usually takes an hour to an hour and a half. It goes something like this:
- I log onto the Windoiws Home Server (WHS) computer at home via Internet Explorer, then create a new subdirectory in the Photos shared folder to whicvh I upload the photos on the camera's SD card using an SD to USB adapter.
- Once the photos are uploaded, which can take a while over a slow internet connection, I connect to my web server box via Remote Desktop Connection through the WHS box.
- I have Picasa photo editing software installed on the web server and configured to reference the Photo folder on the WHS box, and I use this to crop, rotate, and otherwise prepare the photos for publishing.
- Once I've finished with Picasa I copy the edited photos from the folkder on the WHS box to a temporary folder on the web server.
- Finally, I start a browser session on the local computer I am working from, log into the photo gallery software on my web server, create a new gallery for the new photos, and upload them from the server directory I previously copied the edited photos into.
- All that's left now is to clean up. I delete the photos from the temporary directory on the web server. I also delete the photos from the SD card before putting it back into the camera. Then I create a blog entry to let you all know the new photos are available for viewing.
So, that's what I wanted to do thoday, but I am not going to be able to. Hopefully I will get ample internet access when I get to Erwin, probably on Thursday.
I did manage to log on to the network at home long enough to get the web server running again, since it had died. That happens sometimes, for no explicable reason. I also logged intoJodi's computer and tried to troubleshoot some problems she's been having with Firefox crashing on her, with only minimal success.
Jodi is actually flying to Memphis today for work. We'll actually be in the same state for much of this week, though still pretty far apart and we won't be able to see each other. :-(
In addition to folod I picked up a copy of Abbey's "Down The River" while I was at the outfitter's this morning, and I'll enjoy reading that in the evenings while hanging in my hammock. Oh, I sent my Thermarest forward in my bolunce box, so I am back to being dedicated to the hammock every night.
Here's hoping everybody has a pleasant weekend, and Happy Easter to those that celebrate it.
Allen Freeman
allen@allenf.com
www.allenf.com
AT Miles = 14.8 / 268.6
Other Miles = 0.5 / 14.7
Total Miles = 15.3 / 283.3
Another great day! It was cold as I left camp this morning but it warmed up quickly and by mid-morning I was down to shorts and a T-Shirt. Up high there is still plenty of snow on the ground and being slushy it made the footing difficult, but just before lunch time I lost a lot of altitude and suddenly was back into spring. The trail was dry and the forest had that dry, dusty feel in the nose that comes in late spring. I stopped for lunch where the trail crossed an old road that was grassy and warm and dry. After lunch it was a gorgeous, comfortable walk for a few more miles until arriving here atg the shelter. It is situated on a little knoll covered with mostly evergreens. The two couples in our little hiking group have pushed on into town, and there are five of us here for the night. It is a pleasant, warm night and we are sitting around the campfire while the conversation roams far and wide.
We are only 3.2 miles from Hot Springs, where the trail goes right down the main street through town. I intend to stay there for two nights, and head out of town on Sunday morning. It's been almost two weeks since my last day off and I really need a rest. The people I am hiking with are almost all half my age, and I don't recover quite as quickly as they do!
Sweet dreams to all...
Allen Freeman
allen@allenf.com
www.allenf.com
AT Miles = 15.4 / 253.8
Other Miles = 0.4 / 14.2
Total Miles = 15.8 / 268.0
Glory! What a fantastic day!
After spending the last few days in close company with the group I've been hiking with -- close quarters because of all the snow and wind and cold, while we watched out for each other -- and them the close quarters in the hostel last night, I've been feelinbg a bit overwhelmed with human company and in need of some personal space. When I woke up this morning I settled for a cold breakfast and packed quickly and headed back out onto the trail.
It was a glorious day; sharply cold, deep blue sky, sunshine, snow on the ground. The kind of day to make you feel good to be alive.
I ended up spending the whole day hiking alone, and it was just what the doctor ordered. The high point of the day, literally, was Max Patch. It was so windy up on the bald top of Max Patch that I literally had trouble walking in a straight line.
Once I reached the shelter for the night, the other hikers I've been with all showed up and we had our usual pleasant evening of food porn and other conversations.
I thionk this was the best day I've had on the trail so far!
Allen Freeman
allen@allenf.com
www.allenf.com
There is a fair amount of discussion on the trail about how to hike
the trail. Not the mechanics of hiking, but rather the attitude with
which one does his or her hike. The main tension seems to be between
relaxing and enjoying the hike for itself, vs focusing on covering the
entire distance, and thus getting consumed by reaching goals. I've
thought about this quite a bit, both before my hike started and
especially while hiking. I think both are necessary. Certainly, I want
to enjoy the hiking and the views and the people I meet. But there is
also a physical challenge involved in this, and to ignore that would,
for me, bne just as wrong as focusing on it too intensely. A large
part of my goal in doing this is IS simply to see if I can walk 2000
miles in six months or so.
Well, enough musings for this morning. It's a beautiful, clear
morning, though a bit cold. I've got to get my gear packed and get
back out there on the trail. I expect I'll upload photos when I get to
Hot Springs, so you can expect them Friday or Saturday.
--
~~~~~
Allen F. Freeman
allen@allenf.com
www.allenf.com
allenf.blogspot.com
AT Miles = 10.4 / 238.4
Other Miles = 0.1 / 13.7
Total Miles = 10.5 /252.2
It had snowed all night and there was about 5" or 6" of snow on the ground, and it was still snowing. It was gorgeous out, but cold. As you can maybe imagine, 17 people trying to cook breakfast and pack up their gear all inside a trail shelter would be utter chaos. We thought we would just stay on our sleeping bags and wait while the others got their stuff together and left, but it soon became apparent they would be going nowhere very soon, as they all seemed to be fgussing about with coffee and putzing around with their gear. So finally I got up and retrieved all of our food bags from the bear cables, and we all ate a quick breakfast of whatever cold foods we had, packed up our gear, and headed out for a hopefully quick 10 mile hike down to the hostel.
It was a beautiful day to hike through the snow. Yup. Spring-time in the Smokies! We arrived here at the hostel around 1:00pm or so. It is a rather unique place. We are all sitting in the bunkhoused arrayeds around the wood stove. Everything here is on the homor system. You pick up an envelope and write down everything you take or use; $15 for a bunk. $10 if you get a pizza, $0.75 for a sodas, and on and on. When you leave you put your money in the envelope and drop it in a box.
Tomorrow we will head out again. The plan is to hike most of the way to Hot Spring over the next two days, camp about 3 miles outside of town on Thursday night, then make it into town early on Friday morning, in time for breakfast in the morning. The trail actually goesd right through toen. I plan to take a zero day there, so will get a room for Friday and Saturday nights, then head back out on Sunday.
Rigth now it is still snolwing, but the weather is supposed to moderate and it should be reasonably warm and drier the next few days.
Allen Freeman
allen@allenf.com
www.allenf.com
AT Miles = 20.3 / 228
Other Miles = 0 / 13.7
Total Miles = 20.3 / 241.7
In the morning the rain had stopped, but the wind was still whipping and the temperature was falling. I set out from the shelter with a group of six other hikers with the aim of reaching Tricorner Knob Shelter about 12 and a half miles away. About 10:00 it started snowing, and the temp continued to drop making it very cold walking. We all pushed pretty hard and were at Tricorner Knob about 2:00. After contemplating sitting around in the shelter getting colder and colder all afternoon, we all decided to push on and make the miles to Cosby Knob Shelter. The rest of the day was mostly a march through the blowing snow, and by 5:00pm we all had finished the 20 miles to the shelter. There were already 9 or 10 people at the shelter, which has a capacity of 12. Luckily for us everybody was willing to scrunch together and we managed to fit everybody in by setting up the sleeping pads right next to each other. It snowed all day and was still snowing when we all climbed up into our bunks. I thi
nk we entertained all the weekenders by fantasizing about all the different foods we will get when we finally make it to Hot Springs, probably around Friday.
Allen Freeman
allen@allenf.com
www.allenf.com
AT Miles = 15.5 / 205.7
Other Miles = 0.3 / 13.7
Total Miles = 15.8 / 221.4
Food Fantasies!
Today was a beautiful day. Soon after leaving in the morning I made it to the summit of Clingmans Dome. There is a road to the summit and an observation tower, and being Sunday there were lots of tourists about. After leaving Clingmans it was a rather long but pleasant hike down to Newfound Gap. All I really remember about the day was having long never-ending food fantasies. When I reached Newfound Gap I hung out at the parking area and watched the tourists as they watched me. An hour or so later a bunch of other hikers arrived and we spent some time lamenting the lack of a cheeseburger stand there, and discussed the possibility of getting a ride into Gatlinburg to gorge on fast food then getting a ride back to the trail. Instead, we eventually just saddled up and hiked the remaining 3 miles into Icewater Springs Shelter.
It was still gorgeous weather when we arrived, and I went down to the spring and washed up, then stuck some of my wet laundry out to dry in the sun. An hour or so later the clouds started to roll in, and the wind started to pick up.
Some time after we went to bed the wind picked up another notch, and the rain started. I've never experienced rain like this before. It came down so hard and the wind was so strong that the shelter asctually shook, even though it was made of stone.
Allen Freeman
allen@allenf.com
www.allenf.com
HAPPY BIRTHDAY JODI!
AT Miles = 14.7 / 192.2
Other Miles = 0 / 13.4
Total Miles = 14.7 / 205.6
It was still windy and cold this morning, but all the clouds had blown out and the sky was crystal clear. I ate a quick breakfast of cold cereal, packed up my gear, took off all my nice warm clothes, and headed up the trail. It was a gorgeous morning. The temp was just a bit below freezing and I could see a big puff of frost with every breath. Last night's fog had frozen to the trees and the branches sparkled in the early morning sunlight.
After all the rain and fog lately, it was absolutely glorious to look out and see the grand views. A bunch if us reached Rocky Top about the same time and hung out for a good hour just enjolying the view.
My "hiker appetite" really hit me today and I have been craving food all the time. I just finished eating dinner and I am hungry enough to do it all over again at least twice. The same thing is happening to other hikers and we spend great amounts of time talking about food.
The terrain here is steeper and the climbs longer than the terrain further south, and it takes me longer to coiver distances. I didn't get into the shelter tonight until almost 5:00, making a 9 hour "work day" today. It warmed up nicely in the afternoon so once into the shelter I was able to wash up and I feel much cleaner. Lots of hikers don't bother until the hit town, but it makes me a lot more comfortable at night.
Tomorrow morning we'll climb to the top of Clingmans Dome, at 6643' the highest point on the entire Appalachian Trail. It's all downhill from there!
We have a full house here tonight, with the shelter full and several tents and hammocks outside.
Tomorrow's weather should be good, the the rain comes in tomorrow night and Monday and Tuesday are supposed ti be very cold, with highs in the 30s and lows in the teens. Sir Richard, a British hiker, is hoping to see snow. I'm just hoping to stay reasonably comfortable.
Allen Freeman
allen@allenf.com
www.allenf.com
AT Miles = 13.8 / 177.5
Other Miles = 0 / 13.4
Total Miles = 13.8 / 190.9
When I went to bed last night I had pretty much decided to take a zero at Fontana Dam, but apparently sometime while I was sleepibg I decided not to. I woke up about 3:30 this morning and couldn't get back to sleep because my mind was full of all the things I still had to do before I would be ready to head out. So, I got up and washed out my bandanas (I have three, one for washing my body, one for washing my dishes, and one I keep in my pocket all day for wiping away sweat, dirt, etc.), I moved the socks I had washed last night, but were still wet, so that they were sitting on the heater so they would dry fast. I finished up those ands a bunch iof oither little chores, then at 6:00am I headed up to the main lodge and used the public computer to upload my photos so you all could enjoy them. When the restaurant opened at 7:30, I had a great breakfast, then headed back to my room and finished up my bounce box, grabbed my pack and trekking poles, took one last look around the room to ma
ke sure I hadn't left anything, then headed up to check out and to get a shuttle bacxk to the trail.
It was heavily overcast and very windy, but it wasn't raining and I actually got a few photos of the dam as I walked across. Once across the dam I walked into the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. That was exciting.
The trail climbed steeply and it quickly got colder and wetter and cloudier. It seemd to take forever to get anywhere. Finally I arrived at the shelter and it was one of the old fashioned ones with the chain-link fence across the front and a gate that could be latched at night when everybody is in for the night.
It was wickedly cold with the wind blowing. I had my doubts that the water for dinner would ever boil on my wimpy little alcohol stove, but eventually it did. I managed to stay awake for a decent interval after supper, standing around in the shelter talking with other hikers, then crawled into my nice warm sleeping bag around 8:00 as the sun went down.
Allen Freeman
allen@allenf.com
www.allenf.com
http://www.allenf.com/gallery2/main.php/v/AT2009/FranklinToFontanaDam/
It's dark and ominous outside today with winds of 25 - 35 miles an
hour with gusts to 45, but I think I am going to head out anyway. Wish
me luck!
--
~~~~~
Allen F. Freeman
allen@allenf.com
www.allenf.com
allenf.blogspot.com
AT Miles = 12.7 / 163.7
Other Miles = .3 / 13.4
Total Miles = 13 / 177.1
It was a wonderful evening last night, and when I went to bed about
8:30 the stars were starting to shine and the moon was visible. It
even stayed a bit too warm overnight and I had trouble sleeping
because I was too warm in my sleeping bag.
Then when I woke up this morning, the clouds had rolled back in. It
was gray and overcast, but it wasn't actually raining. I ate a quick
breakfast of Grape Nuts cereal and some Instant Breakfast, packed my
gear up and hit the trail about 8:00am. It was pleasant enough hiking,
but nothing spectacular or photo worthy. I was hoping to get some
shots of Fontana Dam from above as the trail approached it, but by the
time I got there it was raining rather steadily and the fog had rolled
back in. I did get a shot or two sort of through the trees as the fog
ebbed and flowed. I don't know whether they will be any good or not.
Yesterday morning while I was climbing out of the Nantahala River
Gorge and passing by the overlooks, it was also raining and foggy and
I could see absolutely nothing. When I got to Cheoah Bald, which is
purported to have nice views, it was still foggy. Half an hour later
the sky cleared and the sun shone and it was a summer day. It seems
the weather is clear whenever there isn't all that much to see.
I am still pondering whether to get back on the trail tomorrow or take
a zero here at Fontana. My legs and feet are pretty tired and once I
leave here I have at least 8 solid, tough days to get through the
Smokies. I've checked the weather forecast and it looks like a mixture
of sunny and overcast days with some chance of rain every couple of
days. Some days call for temps in the 70s, but others have highs in
the 40s and overnight lows in the 20s. I am going to have to load up
on food and warm clothing. Another day of rest sounds like a better
and better idea; still, I am waffling.
I am super hungry so I guess I am going to head into the restaurant
and have something to eat.
--
~~~~~
Allen F. Freeman
allen@allenf.com
www.allenf.com
allenf.blogspot.com
AT Miles = 16.0 / 151
Other Miles = 0.1 / 13.1
Total Miles = 16.1 / 164.1
I had a good night at the NOC last night. After hanging around in the common room of the hostel for a couple of hours chatting with other hikers, I headed back to my bunk to sleep figuring I would be woken up when the heavy drinkers came to bed later in the night, but apparently I slept through their entrance as the next thing I knew it was morning.
It rained all night and was still raining when I walked back across the river to the restaurant for breakfast at 8:00am. When I left the restaurant and started hiking about 8i:50 the rain was tapering off but was still heavy enough that I hiked in my rain gear.
It took a few minutes of exploring to figure out where the trail left the NOC parking lot, but I finally found the place where it crossed the railroad tracks and headed up the hill.
It was a tough day. I only covered 16 miles but this 16 miles included a LOT of steep climbing. The first 6 miles were all uphill and the next 10 miles were a constant up and down. At the beginning of the day I figured I would be done by 4:00, but in actuality I didn't arrive here until after 5:00, totally spent.
The first half of the day was rainy or overcast, and I hiked in the heavy fog I have become so used to, but about 1:00pm the sun finally burned through and the rest of the day felt more like summer than early spring. Right now it is just gorgeous out, except for a few annoying gnats. It will be dark in an hour and I still have to go through the frustrating ritual of hanging my food bag.
Tomorrow should be a relatively easy 12 miles into Fontana Dam. I should be able to get there in early afternoon and have plenty of time to get a ride into town and collect all my packages, then retreat to a motel room where I can sort through my food and gear and figure out what I need for the next leg in the Smokies. Whatever I don't need I'll bounce* further up the trail. I still haven't decided whether I will zero in Fontana or head back out on Friday.
* Jargon Alert:
There is a subculture around hiking the Appalachian Trail, and like any subculture it has its own lingo; a handy way to tell the insiders from the outsiders. Here's a short primer in case I slip some trail lingo into my posts:
- Thru-hiker: Someone who hikes the entire trail in one year
- Section Hiker: Someone who hikes the trail in multiple shorter chunks, often over many years
- NOBO: Northbounder (like me), someone who hikes the trail from south to north
- SOBO: Southbounder
- GAME: GA to ME; same as NOBO
- MEGA: ME to GA; same as SOBO
- Zero or Zero Day: A day in which you hike zero miles; a day off. Can be a noun or a verb. "I will take a zero on Friday" or "I will zero on Friday."
- Bounce box: A box used to mail things you don;'t need right now to a town further up the trail. I have a bounce box waiting for me in Fontana Dam that has some of my warmer clothes in it, as well as the charger for my camera battery. I mailed it from Hiawassee because I knew I wouldn't need those things for this part of the hike.
Allen Freeman
allen@allenf.com
www.allenf.com
AT Miles = 11.5 / 135
Other Miles = 0 / 13
Total Miles = 11.5 / 147.9
It was a cold night last night. Okay, it wasn't any colder than several other nights I've camped on this trip, but my own absent-mindedness made it a cold night. As you know, I sleep in a camping hammock. In a hammock you need insulation under you, as the cold air curculates underneath the hammock. I have my hammock set up with a double bottom, with the outer layer made of silnylon so it is waterproof and more or less windproof. Between the two layers I have an open cell foam pad that is made for the Hennessy Hammock and provides insulation. The OCF pad has small elastics on either side that attach to the edge of the hammock and aligns it correctly so that it is positioned under the part of the hammock where I lie.On either end it has long elastics which attach to the hammock suspension line on the head end and the foot end. These elastics hold the OCF pad up against the hamm,ock bottom tightly, so there is no air space between the hammock bottom and the OCF pad. Well, when setting
up the hammock I attached the side elastics, but I never attached the elastics on the ends. Duh! I woke up about 4:00am this morning with my back and butt very chnilled. For the life of me I couldn't figure out why, so I just suffered through it until it was light enough to get up about 7:00. Only then did I realize my mistake, which left a gap between the insulating pad and ther hammock, and let cold air in to chill me.
Lately I have been eating a cold breakfast rather than using the time and fuel to heat water and make tea and oatmeal, so after eating my Grape Nuts with powdered milk, and drinking an Instant Breakfast, also mixed with powdered milk, I packed up and was on the trail about 8:15. After pushing kind of hard yesterday to make 16 miles, I took it easy today. It was a cool, damp, overcast day, and hiking felt really good; generating enough heat to make me comfortable hiking in shorts and a T-Shirt.
A couple of brief rain showers passed over a couple of hours into my hike, and since I was just passing by the Wesser Bald Shelter, I stopped there about 10:30 and ate an early lunch of English Muffins with peanut butter under cover, and I also rigged my pack for the rain. The rain stopped in a few minujtes and it didn't rain again the rest of my hike.
Abolut an hour later I reached the top of the ridge overlooking the Nantahala Gorge and the Nantahala River. The view was quite impressive, though I don't know if the pictures I took will look like it since it was a very flat, gray day and it may just look like a dull, featureless, gray mass.
From here the rest of the hike was downhill, which is murder on my feet. I'd rather climb all day than descend! I finally reached the bottom around 1:30 and came out at the Nantahala Oudoor Center, directly opposite the outfitters store. I had a mail-drop scheduled here so I wen in and inquired after my package, and sure enough when they checked the book it showed that they had 1 package for Allen Freeman. The clerk went to retrieve it for me and when he returned I found to my surporise that the bos was not from home (the box with my food for the next two days to Fontana Dam) , but rather iot was from a friend out in California. I asked the clerk to double-check, but that was the only package for me.
I took the heft surprise package in hand, and after getting directions I set off to register for a bunk in the hostel, then got to my assigned place and opened my package to find a huge array of snacks and supplies. It was like Christmas morning and I wastede nol time in pawing through it pulling out, first, all the food, and then going back and picking out akk the most useful supplies. The box must have weighed 10 pounds and there is no way I can take all of its contents, but I have offered the largesse to the othjer hikers here tonight and the box is well on its way to being emptied.
After opening my surprise package, but before taking a shower, I called Jodi and asked her about the package she mailed to me here, only to find out that I screwed up communications and Jodi didn't realize she was supposed to mail anything. That being the case, all the little goodies in my surporise box are going to come in very handy, as they are going to provide the base, along with some odds and ends left in my food bag and a couiple of Pop-Tarts I bought at the store here, of my diet for the next couple of days until I get to Fontana Dam and my next mail-drop.
So now I've showered, washed out my socks, and had a meal and a couple of beers at the restaurant. Tomorrow morning I'll have a big breakfast in the restaurant (I checked and they open at 8:00), then make my climb out of thee gorge (3,000 feet in six miles of steady climbing) and be on my way towards Fontana Dam.I may get into Fontana on Thursday afternoon.If not, then I should get there early on Friday, in plenty of time to get a ride into town and pick up my package at the post office beofre they close at 4:30. From Fontana Dam, I'll enter the Great Smoku Mountains National Park. That's exciting!
So, a special thanks to my anonymous benefactor. Yes Monique, that's you. (Did you enjoy your brief anonymity?) All kidding aside, that was an overwhelming array of goodies you packed. I am stunned by the effort you must have put into it. I promise you that every last item will be gratefully used by me or some other hiker.
Finally, a special note to Bogey and Slim, if you are reading this: I ate breakfast at the Baptist Church in Franklin yesterday morning, and saw your signatures on the wall for the class of 2008!
Allen Freeman
allen@allenf.com
www.allenf.com
AT Miles = 15.8 / 123.5
Other Miles = 0 / 13
Total Miles = 15.8 / 136.4
I enjoyed my zero day in Franklin yesterday, but by the end of the day yesterday I was itching to get back out on the trail.
I was awake early this morning. I think I actually sleep better in my hammock than I do in a bed in a motel room. The Baptist church in Franklin does breakfast for hikers every day for about three weeks during thru-hiker season, and their van picked up a bumch of us at the motel about 7:15. They drove us to the church and served us pancakes, bacon, coffee, cocoa, and orange juice. They had us back at the motel before 8:30 and Ron Haven showed up with his old school bus to drive us back up to the trail in Winding Stair Gap a few minutes after 9:00, so I was on the trail a few minutes past 9:30.
Last night was cold, qand it even snowed a bit up in the mountains. There was still a bit of snow on the ground in the shade. I climbed Siler Bald and Wayah Bald. There is a tower up on Wayah Bald and the views were tremendous. It was so nice to see something other than the inside of a cloud!
Right now I am sitting around The fire ring while a couple of other hikers try to start a fire, and we are all chatting about a multitude of topics. Tomorrow looks like a rather easy 12 miles into the Nantahala Ouitdoor Center, where there should be a package from Jodi with a couple days of food. I'll get a good restaurant meal there. I still haven't decided whether I will stay there tomorrow night or not. I need to make it to Fontana Dam before the post office there closes at 4:30 on Friday afternoon, as all my supplies for the stretch of trail through ther Smokies will be there. If I don't get there in time I will have to wait until the post office opens on Monday.
Oh, I saw a deer today. That makes my wildlife sightings so far a couple of rabbits, a snake, plenty of squirrels, and a plethora of birds I can't identify.
Allen Freeman
allen@allenf.com
www.allenf.com
AT Miles = 11.8 / 79.3
Other Miles = 0.4 / 13.0
Total Miles = 12.2 / 92.2
I woke up around 5:30 this morning and after showering I turned on the TV and watched the morning news program which today was all weather all the time. A big weather system was moving into the area and the forecast called for lots of rain and high winds in yjr north Georgia mountains. They were also reporting that a likely tornado had touched down over in Alabama early this morning.
In spite of all this, I was bored with hanging out in town and decided to head back out on the trail. The rain is forecast to contine for the next three days and I can't very well hide in town every time the weather gets bad.
So, at 8:30 I was on the shuttle back up to Dicks Creek Gap, and at 8:50 I was standing out in the rain strapping my pack to my back and heading up the trail.
The rain continued rather heavy for the first hour and a half or so, thern it tapered off. It is nowhere near clear, though. The mountains are right up in the cloud and visibility is only about 15 yards or so. It is very damp and chilly. I hiked with my raqin jacket and my new rain wrap (alright, alright; it's a skirt).
Around 1:00PM I hiked out of Georgia and into North Carolina. One state down and 13 to go! About a tenth of a mile later I reached Bly Gap (somehow the trail goes UP into the Gap) and the gnarled old tree that grows there and is seen in so many thru-hikers' photo albums.
The introduction to North Carolina is a tough one, as the trail climbs and climbs and climbs. Finally, around 3:00PM, I reached Muskrat Creek Shelter. The shelter is full, but I sleep in my hammock anyway so I don't care. I only want the shelter for a drfy place to cook aqnd eat and write this journal.
It's only a bit after 4:00 now, but I am going to make dinner soon, then retreat to my hammock and read before going to bed.
Oh! When I got here someone said to me "Hey Monkeywrench, there was Monkeywrewnch book (The Monkeywrench Gang) back at the last shelter." Darn. I was just thinking today that I'd like to get a paperback version so I could re-read that book on my hike.
I better quit now. My fingers aqre getting stiff with cold.
Allen Freeman
allen@allenf.com
www.allenf.com
http://www.allenf.com/gallery2/main.php/v/AT2009/HiawasseeToFranklin/
--
~~~~~
Allen F. Freeman
allen@allenf.com
www.allenf.com
allenf.blogspot.com
Friday:
AT Miles = 12.5 / 91.8
Other Miles = 0 / 13
Total = 12.5 / 104.7
Saturday:
AT Miles = 15.9 / 107.7 (I've passed the 100 mile mark!)
Other Miles = 0 / 13
Total Miles = 15.9 / 120.6
These posts are going to be a bit out of order. I have a post for
Thursday, the 26th, on my phone but for some reason Sprint has no
service in Franklin, NC, where I am tonight, so I can't send it. I'll
send it as soon as I get service again.
As a brief re-cap, I left Hiawassee, Georgia Thursday morning in the
rain, and on Thursday afternoon passed into North Carolina.
I am going to combine Friday and Saturday as they kind of blend
together in my mind. I left Muskrat Creek Shelter Friday morning after
a soggy night. It didn't actually rain overnight, but the humidity was
about 100% as we were in thick cloud all night. The tarp over my
hammock kept any rain and the water dripping from the trees off of me,
but the saturated air flowing through the hammock left everything very
damp.
Sometime during the night some animal ran under my hammock and I
actually felt him or her rub against the bottom of the hammock - and
my back - as it passed. There were some people sleeping in the shelter
that had a dog, so I think odds are it was the dog, but I'm not sure.
Mr. Ed thought it was funny to think it was a bear cub teasing his
mom. I hope not!
I started the day on Friday dressed for rain (shorts and T-Shirt with
rain jacket and rain skirt over them). After an hour or so it was not
raining and I was warming up so I took off the rain jacket and wrap.
Of course, about 15 minutes later it started to rain, and rained all
the rest of the day. After a long day of walking through the rain I
made it to Carter Gap Shelter. It was only about 3:00 PM, and I used
up as much time as I could getting water, cooking and eating dinner,
and cleaning up. It was cold standing around in wet clothes so about
5:30 I found a spot tucked behind some rhododendron bushes and out of
the wind to set up my hammock, then changed into dry clothes and
climbed in with my book. I managed to stay awake almost 'til 8:00PM,
then I was off to dream land. Just before I went to sleep I glanced
away from my book and out the netting of my hammock to see a rabbit
wandering through. I guess the hammock just doesn't register to
animals, since it's up in the air off the ground.
This morning (Saturday) I was awake about 6:00 and lay in my hammock
until about 6:30 when the first bit of light started to show itself. I
was up with my headlamp to eat breakfast and break camp, then I was
off on the trail at 8:08 (I usually glance at my watch every morning
when I start to hike). When I woke up this morning I decided that my
goal for the day was to get to Winding Stair Gap and get a ride into
Franklin, so I could have a hot shower, a dry motel room, and a nice
dinner. Within 20 minutes of starting my hike the rain started, and it
got heavier and heavier as the morning progressed. I was set on making
my miles, but I was also enjoying the day and the bits of scenery I
could see. As any of the photographers out there know, when it is
raining colors and very saturated and the diffuse light makes details
very interesting. There were a million shades of green. In a few
places there was a particular kind of tree that grows kind of short
and gnarly, and the trees were all covered with a green moss that was
very striking.
I stopped briefly at Big Spring Shelter, 6.8 miles from the day's
start, just to get out of the rain so I could dig some food out of my
pack. It was too cold to stand still for very long so after wolfing
down a couple of Pop-Tarts I was back out into the rain and pressed on
non-stop until I reached Winding stair Gap at 15.9 miles.
When I was maybe 4 miles from Winding Stair Gap the rain started to
ease and I could see some breaks in the clouds to the west. Soon the
wind was roaring as the high pressure started to push in, and the
cloud and fog that had enveloped us for the last three days started to
get torn away in shreds. When I finally reached Winding Stair Gap it
was 2:14, meaning that I had covered 15.9 miles in 6 hours and 6
minutes. My feet surely feel it!
I was offered a ride into town by someone at the Gap, and 15 or 20
minutes later I was chatting with Ron Haven and Miss Janet, two
legends on the trail who run a couple of motels and a hostel in town
and go to great lengths to extend hospitality to hikers. I have a room
in one of Ron's motels for tonight and tomorrow night. I'll spend
tomorrow (Sunday) getting all my gear clean and dry and shopping for
food for the next leg, which will be 2 1/2 days up to the Nantahala
Outdoor Center.
--
~~~~~
Allen F. Freeman
allen@allenf.com
www.allenf.com
allenf.blogspot.com
AT Miles = 11 / 67.5
Other Miles = 0.2 / 12.6
Total Miles = 11.2 / 80.0
As I write this it is Wednesday afternoon and I am relaxing in a room at the Hiawassee Inn in Hiawassee Georgia.
Yesterday morning I woke up in my hammock at Tray Mountain Shelter. It had been a very windy night with a heavy fog, and the trees were dripping big fat drops of water on the tarp of my hammock.
I had visions of a hot shower and a big grinder for lunch dancing in my head, so I wasted no time in eating breakfast and packing my gear. By 8:20 I was headed back up the side trail to the AT. (8:20 may not sound like an early start, but Georgia is much further west than Boston is, so the sun comes up nearly an hour later hereabouts.)
It was only 11 miles to the road crossing in Dicvks Creek Gap, but there were a couple of very stiff climbs along the way. It was also a warm and rather muggy day.
I passed a place named "Swag of the Blue Ridge". I've no idea what this name refers to. It looked like any other gap between two peaks, a multitude of which I walk through every day. On my map it is labeled "Blue Ridge Swag." If I get internet access again soon I'll try googling it, or maybe one of my readers could do that and let me know via a comment to this post.
So, I climbed Kelly Knob, descended into Deep Gap, and them back up to Powell Mountain. Finally, I started the long descent into Dicks Creek Gap.
I arrived at the Gap at 1:00PM. There was a local there who asked if I was planning to go into town. When I told him I was he offered to drive me for either $7 or a joint. I told him I thought I would try my luck at hitching instead. It took a total of 3 passing cars and 11 minutes before I got a ride from a gentleman who dropped me off right at the driveway to the motel.
I didn't do much Tuesday afternoon except shower, wash my laundry (NASTY socks!), and eat.
Today, Wednesday, I walked up Main Street almost a mile to find a diner for breakfast, then I walked to the grocery store and bought food for the next 3 - 4 day leg up to Winding Stair Gap and Franklin, NC, about 40 trail miles away. After the grocery store I stopped at the post office and picked up my 20 degree sleeping bag that I asked Jodi to send to me here.
With all my packages in hand I came back to my room, then after leaving everything here I walked up to the library so I coukd post my photos. The link to those in in the previous blog entry. On my way out to walk to the library I ran into Jersey Girl who was also here last night, but I didn't know it. She is heading out of town to stay at the Blueberry Patch hostel tonight. While I was at the library I ran into Leatherfoot. It looks like we'll all be back on the trail tomorrow.
When I left the library it was raining heavily, but it is a short walk back to my motel. Once back, I packed up my zero degree sleeping bag, which has had me roadting every night so far, so I could mail it back home to Jodi. I also made up another box of some of my heaviest clothing, along with some sp;are food and other odds and ends, so that I could mail it to myself at Fontana Dam, just before I enter the Smokies. All that done, I walked back to the post office to send my packages, then stopped at a mini-mart to buy a local paper, and the Subway shop next door for another grinder for luinch.
I love reading small town newspapers. The lead headline is a three page article about the new school gymnasium being built, which notes that at its tallest point it is 36 feet high, and is accomnpanied by several photos to show the progress of construction.
The weather forecast includes a wind advisory until tomorrow night. I guess if the weather is really nasty tomorrow I could head up to the hostel for the night. If not, I'll be b\ack on the trail tomorrow. It's supposed to rain on and off through Saturday.
The North Carolina border is only 9 miles away, so I will soon have completed one state. I look at short-term goals like that because thinking of 2000+ miles or six months is just too daunting. I should be in Franklin, NC either Saturday or Sunday.
Allen Freeman
allen@allenf.com
www.allenf.com
--
~~~~~
Allen F. Freeman
allen@allenf.com
www.allenf.com
allenf.blogspot.com
